Silk Dress Shirts Biography
Source(google.com.pk)
A shirt, button shirt, dress shirt, button-front, button-front shirt, button-down, button-down shirt, or button-up shirt is a garment with a collar, and a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem. While traditionally dress shirts were worn by men (while women wore blouses or chemises), in the mid-1800s it also became an item of women's clothing and is worn by both sexes today. The front opening is fastened using buttons or studs. Shirts are normally made from woven cloth, and are often accompanied by a jacket and tie, for example with a suit or formalwear, but shirts are also worn more casually. In British English, dress shirt means specifically the more formal evening garment worn with black- or white- tie, also discussed below. Some of these formal shirts have stiff fronts and detachable collars attached with collar studs. The term "button-down" (which refers a type of shirt which has a collar fastened down by buttons is sometimes used in error to apply to all shirts (with or without buttoned down collars), being used as a synonym for "button-up" or "button-front".
Components: A shirt has several components: A one-piece back, which is usually pleated, gathered, or eased into a section of fabric in the upper part of the back behind the neck and over the shoulders known as the yoke (either one-piece or seamed vertically in the middle); one-piece sleeves with plackets at the wrist, or else short-sleeved (cut off above the elbow), though this is not traditional; a band of fabric around each wrist known as a cuff; the collar, a strip around the neck, which is normally a turndown collar, with the strip folded down away from the neck, leaving two points at the front, the width of which is known as the spread; and finally two front panels which overlap slightly down the middle on the placket to fasten with buttons (or rarely shirt studs).
Collars: There are various different styles of collar, which is the primary indicator of the formality of a shirt. Those discussed here are all attached collars, not styles specific to detachable collars.The very top button is number 1.
Spread collars measure from around 3½ to 6 inches between the collar points, and the wider collars are often referred to as cutaway or Windsor collars after the Duke of Windsor. This city style is more formal, though it is common in Europe, and predominant in the UK.
Point, straight, or small collars are narrow, with 2½ to 3¼ inches between the points of the collar.
Button-down collars have points fastened down by buttons on the front of the shirt. Introduced by Brooks Brothers in 1896, they were patterned after the shirts of polo players and were used exclusively on sports shirts until the 1950s in America. It is still considered a more sporting style, and, particularly outside America, traditionally dressed men still do not wear suits with this style of collar.
The less-common styles below were all once common, but have waned in popularity.
Eyelet collars require a barbell-style collar bar to join the small stitched hole on each point.
Tab collars are point collars with two strips of fabric extending from the middle of the collar and joined behind the tie. These lift the tie, giving an arc effect similar to a pinned collar. The tabs can be closed with a metal snap, button or stud.
Club collars have rounded edges, and were very popular in the first few decades of the twentieth century. They have recently received a surge in popularity due to television shows like Mad Men.
The varsity is a type of spread collar in which the points curve outward from the placket of the shirt.
Shirts designed to take a detachable collar have a tunic collar, which is a low standing band of fabric around the neck, with a hole at the front and back for the collar studs.
Contrast collar shirts are occasionally made, which are white collars on a coloured or patterned shirt. These are worn for a variety of reasons, such as to offset certain complexions;[4] because of a tradition started by detachable collars, where it is impractical to have many collars in different matching colours; and finally because when a collar is replaced it is unlikely an exact colour match will be found. These collars are generally considered more formal than matching fabric.
Cuffs: The main distinctions between cuffs are whether they require buttons or cufflinks to fasten, and whether they are folded back (double) or single. The main resulting types are therefore
barrel cuffs, the standard style fastened by one or two buttons according to taste;
double, or French, cuffs, which are more formal, and have an extra length of sleeve folded back and fastened with links; and
single cuffs, the most formal style, usually only worn with formal eveningwear, which are double cuffs without the fold.
In addition, there are some variations, for example barrel cuffs may be mitred, with the corner cut off at 45°. Less common styles include the Portofino, or cocktail cuff, which is a double cuff closed with buttons, first made by the Jermyn Street shirtmakers Turnbull & Asser, and later popularised by the fictional character James Bond in the films from 1962 onwards.
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